

How can I describe the beauty of the desert? Having only lived here for 1 month, perhaps its just part of my settling in period, but the city of Antofagasta is not as desolate as I had heard. And, after traveling farther east toward the border of Bolivia within my region (Region II) I got to visit the little town of San Pedro. With only a population of 5000, the majority of people being tourists, San Pedro is THE stopping place when visiting geysers, salt flats, thermal ba

ths, flamencos, or just to see the true beauty of the desert. I took a bus from Antofa solo and ended up sitting next to a 22 yr. old nursing student returning home to Calama. H

e showed me fotos of his trip to Salta, Argentina with his family (another place to visit while in S. America) We chatted until he left the bus in Calama. An hour later I was dropped off in San Pedro. A wave of panic hit me as thereS seemed to be nothing around for miles. Luckily, friendly tour guides on bikes told me the hostel where my friends were staying was just a couple blocks down the street. After adjusting to my city life in Antofa, embracing S.P. de Atacama was like stepping onto a different planet. My friends, Olivia and TJ had rented a room at Hostal Soncheck the night before and reserved a private room for me. We ended up hanging out in their enormous "matrimonial bed" most of the time, but being three people, we had to rent at least two rooms. They were sandbording (surfing on sand) that

day, so I walked around town with another traveler. We had tea at a little cafe and I listened to the old Englishman talk about his journies. I reunited with TJ and Olivia, having a dinner at Cielo, a restaurant recommended to us by their sandboarding tour guide. Dinner was fine, although a parade of policemen came in the middle to make sure they were upholding their food/wine policy correctly. We met two men working on the Alma project, which will finish in 2012, and will create the world's clearest satelite point, at Milagro, a

little bar with an open fire pit in the center. Rusty, from Killgore, TX was "the stereotypical Texan" as Olivia put it (and being from Fort Worth, I'm taking her word for it). Timothy, was a Coloradoan working with him. The two were sitting with the owner of the bar, Cesar, who served us several free drinks and pizza. He gave us free Milagro T-shirts and invited us to travel with him during the weekend. Sunday we relaxed and checked out tours for the following day. We signed up to see the geysers and thermal baths in the morning, and then the salt flats and flamingoes at night. TJ and Olivia went horseback riding while I rented a bike and did a grueling 2 hour bikeride in the desert. Given our bodies were already kind of loopy from the higher altitude and dryness of the desert, the ride was quite an adventure for a novice rider like me. Still the view was amazing. I had wanted to bike to Valle de la Muerte, which sits across the Valle de la Luna. My ride was along Route 23, and at 3pm, I was the only rider out there except for the passing freight trucks and tour buses. I loved the solitude and it was a treat to get home having accomplished my ride. After regrouping with TJ and Olivia for dinner I said a little hello to Cesar at Milagro's and had a little pina colada before retiring in my room. The next morning, we woke up at 4am to meet our tour guide to drive to the geysers. The other volunteers recommended I wear as many layers as possible for our morning trip. Good thing, as it was below zero in the morning and bitterly cold. TJ, Olivia, and I began to thaw as the sun rose, and although still close to freezing, we dared to enter the thermal baths. We hoarded the best spots in the bath where the bursts of hot water rose being the first three to jump in, and unbeknownst to the others, we stayed at the best spots as others joined in the pool. =)



We returned to San Pedro finding ice cream for lunch and then meeting our tour guide, Fernando, at the office for our trip to the salt flats, salt pools, and flamenco site. The same group of guys we had toured with in the morning were our companions that afternoon. The views are still difficult to describe, and I probably can't do them justice (hence, the pictures), not to mention the fact it seemed we were the only people who actually got to walk directly on the salt flats. Walking on the flats was like walking on unstable snow. All of us got our feet stuck in the mud below, and I'm hoping nothing toxic was living down there as the salt flats seemed like a special nature reserve void of any human interference before we came! We walked out to the flamencos at sunset and returned to the van where Fernando treated us to chips and pisco colas. We got to talk to the other guys after having spent the whole day with them. Although, they clearly doubted our Spanish speaking ability and talked about naked women and the like in front of me and Olivia! We had floated in the salt pools just before, and I felt like I had been creamated in salt and anticipate

d the hostal's showers. Was probably one of the best showers I've taken merely because I've never felt so dirty! We met up with a bunch of Fulbright scholars, also English teachers, whom Olivia and TJ met while sandboarding. We sat at Milagro's for my third night and enjoyed the company of the fire and open ceiling. For such a great honor as receiving a Fulbright, the group was one of the most upbeat, down to earth group. Akshay, who graduated from ASU, told me about working for Teach for America and hopefully I'll see him again in Iquique where he teaches university students. Our last afternoon in SP, we toured the Museo de SP, which is labeled as the Univ. of the North. I was able to leave with Olivia and TJ a couple hours early. On our stop in Calama, I ran into the bathroom but forgot the number bus I was traveling on. I almost flipped out when I asked a stranger if she thoguht the bus was going to Antofagasta and she said "yes" Luckily I saw some guys on my bus that hadn't left the station, meanin

g the bus hadn't left either! I found out they were from France and one was teaching French in La Serena, 13 hours from Antofa! Perhaps I can visit him on a long weekend, but for now, I think I need a weekend back in the city! Next week I'll have pics of my students and teachers from Cerro Moreno, as we're celebrating the school's anniversary (anniversario!) Till then, cuidarte!